한국어로 읽기 The Long Journey of a Wave

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Going deeper

The deeper you go, the smaller the circle — below half a wavelength, almost no motion

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Smaller circles deeper down

This time there are dots below the red one, at different depths. The deeper you go, the faster the circles shrink. At 25 m deep, a quarter of the crest-to-crest distance, the circle is about 21% of the surface one; at half, 50 m, it is about 4%. Below that, the water hardly moves even as waves pass overhead.

Why?A wave is a rolling motion that starts at the surface, so its push weakens the deeper you go. That is why the water a few tens of meters down stays calm even during a storm.

Learn moreCircle size shrinks by the same fraction for every step down. Each time you go down one eighth of the crest-to-crest distance, the circle becomes about half as big (46%). So a wave only “feels” down to about half its crest-to-crest distance. The crest-to-crest distance is called the wavelength.

Circle size at 50 m deep
4%
12.5 m deep
46%
25 m deep
21%
50 m deep
4%

calculated from the textbook equations for water waves (linear wave theory)

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Wikipedia: Airy wave theory

More in the series

The numbers come from the textbook equations for water waves (linear wave theory, the dispersion relation and shoaling). In the 3D view, wave heights are drawn larger; the seabed slope and the shape of breaking waves are rough sketches.